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COPYRIGHT, 1921 

BY 

MAY IRWIN NORWALK 





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{By Way of ‘Preface 

It has been my conviction for many years that true beauty is the 
natural expression of health , just as vitality , grace and charm are 
natural attributes to health. 

I have made this a twenty-year study , consulting doctors , dentists , 
physical educators and health authorities , Tvho are recognized leaders 
in their professions , and have their unqualified corroboration that 
beauty must be produced by physical well being before it can be pre¬ 
served by superficial attention. 

I have therefore devoted this book first to the means of acquir¬ 
ing beauty through the development of health , then to the preservation 
of beauty through the maintenance of health and the perseverance 
of care. 

For their kind assistance and endorsement , without which I could 
not , with complete assurance , vouch for the authenticity and proved 
beneficial results of every suggestion in this book , I beg to express my 
grateful indebtedness to Dr. J. Campbell , Dr. M. Cooley , V. S. 
Durrant, Dental Hygienist , also to another well-known physician , 
and to an important physical educator. 

(Signed ) MAY IRWIN NORWALK . 
















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Miai TLio QWii 

1. You Can Be Beautiful. 

2. The Primer of Health. 

a. Posture and Poise. 

b. Healthful Breathing. 

c. Restful Sleep. 

d. Cleanliness. 

e. Food and Diet. 

f. Exercise. 

3. The Importance of the Right Clothes. 

4. A Youthful Complexion. 

5. Healthy, Luxuriant Hair. 

6. Eloquent Eyes. 

7. Strong, Glistening Teeth, 

8. The Hands—from Wrists to Fingertips. 

9. Beautiful Arms. 

10. The Normal Foot. 

11. The Woman Who Would Gain Weight 

and Strength. 

12. The Woman Who Would Lose Weight. 































YOU 



RE you as beautiful as you would 
like to be? No? Then you are not 
as healthy as you can be. This is 
the only reason. Does it startle 
you? It should. 

Beauty does not come in jars or fancy 
bottles, in tubes or boxes. It comes from 
the woman within you when she is conscious 
of the fullest development of her physical and 
mental potentialities. No great painting 
was ever made with “finishing touches.” 
They can embellish art, but they are not art. 
The conception and the execution of the 


Eleven 











painting comes first. So with yourself. The fluff of a pow¬ 
der puff or the point of a lip stick can adorn beauty, but 
beauty itself is the reward of healthful living and rightful 
thinking. 

Pull your chair up close to the window, look into your 
hand mirror and study your reflection. What are those fine 
little lines etched like a delicate cobweb at the corners of 
your eyes? Why do you compress your lips so tightly? 
Why that lustreless, inanimate look in your eyes? Whence 
that waxen pallor in your cheeks? The gloss of your 
hair seems shadowed with a mist—a mist that veils the 
skin of overripe fruit. Are you content with what the mir¬ 
ror tells you? 

Lotions and preparations may hide these things, but 
only you can change them. Hidden to-day, they will be 
there to-morrow to be hidden again. And then a to-morrow 
will come when they can be hidden no longer. But you have 
the power now to banish them, to exchange them for the 
soft appealing loveliness of youth. Look into the mirror at 
the woman that you are. Gaze into your dreams at the 
woman you long to be. Then so live that the image of your 
dreams may fuse with your reality and the two become one! 

Have you ever seen a plant, stretching its roots out of 
an earthen pot, lifting its head in a shadowed room, its 
growth impaired, its vitality gone? Have you ever seen 
such a plant taken from its stifling atmosphere to a garden 
where the soil is rich and the sunshine glow¬ 
ing, and extend its roots down deep into the 
nourishing ground, lift its head toward the 
light and drink strength and health and 
beauty? It is the difference between being 
alive and living! 



T »elve 



Stop merely being alive and begin to live. The best cos¬ 
metic is the outdoors, the best tonic is the sunshine—do you 
get enough of both? The greatest stimulant is thought, the 
greatest medicine is work—do you do enough of either? 
Enough means until your breath is deep and the crimson of 
health flushes your cheeks, until you hold your head high 
with the joy of life and look about you to absorb the beauty 
of things, until your alert mind never ceases to be eager for 
knowledge, until no task seems to great for you to do. 

If you do not know vitality such as this you are not 
beautiful, even if your features are as perfectly modeled as a 
statue. Beauty of woman is not merely the shape of a nose, 
the arch of a forehead, the curve of a chin. That is beauty 
in cold marble. Beauty in woman is the sparkle of the eye, 
the gleam of white teeth, the moist vermilion of the lips, the 
soft wave of the hair. 

Beauty is more fundamentally important to woman to¬ 
day than ever before in history. This is woman’s era. In no 
previous age can her achievement or development be com¬ 
pared with the present. She has proved herself capable. 
Recognition of her ability has been her justifiable reward. 
But what she has gained by the dynamic force of her brain 
she must hold by the subtle power of her beauty. Men will 
not suffer the charm of women to die. It is their moral obli¬ 
gation to maintain it. 

Take inventory of yourself now. Do you carry the re¬ 
sponsibilities of a household? Are you permitting them, 
through lack of complete systematizing, to steal away your 
leisure? Are you a business woman? Have you let yourself 
become grist in its relentless mill, slave to a schedule of daily 
detail, unmindful of a social life? Or have you neglected to 
discover its possibilities and your possibilities and continue 
to hold your position only for the clothes and comforts its 
remuneration affords? 


Th ir l e e 


Are you a woman of leisure? And have you permitted 
your leisure to bore you, your friends to annoy you, your 
home to distress you? 

Analyze your environment and make a conscious effort 
to adapt yourself to it. Improve your mental attitude. You 
can. It is as easily done as said—if you are in earnest. Do 
not let your household cares submerge you. Regard your 
home as your pride, but let its care be only one of your many 
responsibilities. Take time off for yourself. The house will 
be there when you return. If you are a business woman, 
keep your eyes and ears open and learn as much about your 
business as you can. Make yourself valuable to your busi¬ 
ness and your business will make you valuable to yourself. 

Do not neglect your social life for your business. On 
the other hand, do not disregard your business for the but¬ 
terfly pleasures of society. If you have the precious gift of 
leisure, fill your time with sport, surround yourself with 
friends, make yourself helpful to others, cultivate a hobby. 
The world will seem a bigger, better place to live in. You 
will be a bigger, better person to live with. The new pleas¬ 
ure you take from life will be given back to you a thousand 
times by those who come in contact with you. 

And now—come out of those four walls that hold you 
in. Come out into the open as much and as often as you 
can—out into the air and sunshine, or rain, or snow. Learn 
the value of rest and relaxation. Learn the pleasure of ex¬ 
ercise and sport. Learn the happiness of health, and realize 
that beauty follows inevitably. 



Fourteen 




HEALTH 


NE evidence of health is the ability to forget it. 
Another is the desire to remember it. For health 
is more than merely an absence of aches and pains 
and physical unpleasantness. Real health is vigor, 
vitality and energy, abounding and overflowing. 
The overflow of health is beauty. It is as futile to hope for a 



Fifteen 
















beautiful face with an unhealthy body as it is to expect a 


stalwart building 

on a delicate foundation. These are the 

foundation stones of health and the stepping stones to 
beauty: 

A. 

Posture and Poise. 

B. 

Healthful Breathing. 

C. 

Restful Sleep. 

D. 

Cleanliness. 

E. 

Food and Diet. 

F. 

Exercise. 


Do they seem too simple to be of so great impor¬ 
tance? Too much a part of your present every day life 
and habits to hold the basic secrets of health and beauty? 
It is just because you have considered them so simple that 
you have neglected them. It is because you have thought 
them so familiar that you have overlooked them. Do you 
think you are fair with your health just because you sleep 
with your windows open, bathe frequently, go to bed when 
you are tired, eat sufficient food and stroll in the open oc¬ 
casionally? 

Proof that you are not sufficiently attentive to your 
physical well being is evident. The shadows are creeping 
under your eyes. Your posture is ungraceful. Your shoul¬ 
ders are drooping. Your vitality is ebbing. Yet, wait¬ 
ing, at your service, twenty-four hours every day are your 
windows, your bathtub, your bed, your icebox, your ward¬ 
robe and all outdoors. You are permitting yourself to suffer 
the difference between using them with the monotony of 
routine, and using them with the enthusiasm of well regu¬ 
lated system. 

These may be supplemented with the health-giving 
pleasures of sport and exercise, but they themselves are fun¬ 
damentals of well-being. Redundant health may be enjoyed 
only through an appreciative familiarity with them. 


S i x le e n 


Post itte a/nAj Hotse 

WOMAN’S posture is the expression of her state of 
mind. A hollow chest, relaxed shoulders, a droop¬ 
ing chin, downcast eyes, these are the silent gestures 
that translate a dejected spirit. Erect shoulders, 
an expanded chest, a well poised head and eyes 
that “look the whole world in the face,” these express 
more poignantly than words an alert mind and a healthy 
body. 

Study your posture in front of a full-length mirror. A 
side view tells the story. How do you carry your head? Do 
you permit your neck to lean forward and your head to tip 
backward toward your shoulder blades? Do you allow 
your head to droop as if your spine had lost its vitality about 
half way up your back? Do you draw your head in so that a 
layer of loose fat—the condemned double chin—forms at 
your throat? Then it is time for you to correct your pos¬ 
ture. The ideal way to carry the head is tipped neither for¬ 
ward nor backward, but balanced so that the line of the neck 
and chin forms a single, well arched curve. Look at some¬ 
thing straight ahead of you. Draw your chin in ever so 
slightly. Now you have it! 

NOTICE YOUR CHEST AND SHOULDERS. Do 
not project your chest forward, but raise it up—up, not so 
high that you feel a conscious strain, but just high enough 
to make your head feel naturally well poised when your 
eyes are leveled at an object straight before you. 

Now draw your shoulders back until you feel the pull 
between your shoulder blades. Did you notice how much 



Seventeen 







further than usual you could go? Just think, then, how you 
have permitted them to slouch. Now relax them until you 
have released the tension. No, don’t raise them—don’t let 
them droop—just hold them at a natural level, but back a bit, 
giving your chest room. Now peep at your reflection in the 
mirror. How much better your head is poised! It does 
make a difference, doesn’t it? 

Most women are in the habit of looking in a mirror 
when standing squarely in front of it, then facing about and 
with a small hand glass, noticing the effect at the back. 
Very few women are familiar with a side view of themselves. 
Many would be surprised. A side view reveals the carriage 
of the hips and abdomen. Do you permit your abdomen to 
protrude, giving a long, hollow curve to your back? Do you 
draw your abdomen in too far, giving prominence to the 
lower part of your back and forward tilt to your body? 
These deep curves are not beautiful. The natural curve of 
the spine is a gentle curve. 

The sagging posture gives a forward curve. The con¬ 
strained posture gives a backward curve. Both are not only 
ungraceful but also ungainly. If you draw in the abdomen 
slightly and raise the body consciously upward those deep 
curves will become shallow curves and the contour of the 
body will preserve its youthfulness instead of becoming set 
and matronly. 

THE POSITION OF THE FEET determines the 
position of the body. Feet that are too close together 
throw the body out of balance by giving it a base that is 
too narrow. Feet that are too far apart give a squatty 
clumsiness to the figure. Stand with the two feet squarely 
on the ground, almost touching, with the toes apart ever so 
slightly. Let each foot carry half the body’s weight, and 
let that weight rest its pressure upon the balls of the feet. 


Eighteen 


NOW, ALL TOGETHER—feet well placed, weight 
evenly balanced, abdomen in, back erect, shoulders back 
slightly, chest high, head well poised with eyes level— 
aren’t you conscious of a new feeling of strength, of deter¬ 
mination, of firmness? Don’t you feel that you can live 
better if you stand that way all the time? Think about it 
as often as you possibly can. Then do it. It is worth the 
effort. 



Nineteen 



F you stop breathing you cannot live. If you only 
half breathe you only half live. If you breathe 
pure fresh air with your full lung capacity all the 
time, you live vitally, dynamically. It is as simple 
as a primer. Yet the great majority of women only 
half live because they only half breathe! 

THINK ABOUT THE WAY YOU BREATHE, 
cultivate correct breathing earnestly and it will become a 
habit. When you rise in the morning, throw your window 
all the way up, stand in front of it for a moment and take 
half a dozen deep breaths of clean, fresh, early morning air. 
Two minutes will suffice, but do it—every morning—and 
don’t forget it. Stretch your hands high above your head 
as you inhale, lower them slowly as you exhale. Extend 
them way out to the sides and let your lungs expand. Rise 
on your toes, raise yourself up, up, give yourself room 
inside, then let the air pour into every little crevice. How 
wide awake you will feel 
after it! 

Think about it when 
you pass by a window dur¬ 
ing the day. Raise the sash 
a little higher. Stand in 
front of it for just a mo¬ 
ment. Fling your arms 
wide and fill your lungs 
with air, twice, three times. 

It is revitalizing. 




T tv e n t\f 

















































AIR is as fresh and health-laden at night or on rainy 
days or snowy days as when the sun is shining. Protect 
yourself from dampness and draughts with sensible cloth¬ 
ing, but do not avoid the air. Go in quest of it. When you 
are walking, inhale long draughts of cool air. Feel it enter 
every part of you. People who breathe deeply all the time 
are never short-winded. Correct breathing is the greatest 
preventive of colds and all bronchial troubles. The heart 
is the battery of circulation, but the lungs charge that bat¬ 
tery, and the kind of blood that surges through every 
vein and artery in your body depends entirely upon the 
kind of air that is pumped into your lungs to furnish 
power to the action of your heart. That is why those 
who breathe deeply do not shiver when the first north 
wind of winter blows. For in their veins warm blood 
flows fast, not only around the restricted area of the vital 
organs, but all the way to their toes and fingertips and lips. 

Make use of the air and you will not have to make use 
of artificial means of bringing color to your cheeks or sparkle 
to your eyes. 



T n> e n iy - o n e 




AVE you ever watched a fountain playing in the 
sunshine? The jeweled bubbles leap into the air like 
a glistening rainbow then fall and merge with 
the water below, just for a moment—as if to gain 
strength and energy for the next shimmering 
ecstacy. 

The moments when those bits of water become one with 
the pool are like the moments of sleep when the human mind 
becomes one with eternity. Without returning to the pool 
they could not rise again. Without returning to your bed 



T n> e n i $ - 1o 












































every night of your life you could not rise refreshed to work, 
to think and to live again. Next to air and food, sleep is the 
greatest requisite of the human body. 

Sleep is the simplest, most natural physical function. 
Sound sleep is as much a result of health as it is a cause of 
health, for if one is not healthy one cannot sleep well, and 
the converse is true that if one does not sleep soundly one 
cannot be healthy. Sleep is the source of strength, the elixir 
of beauty, the preserver of youth. 

SLEEP CANNOT BE FORCED. If you go to bed 
after intense strain or excitement, sleep will not come. If 
you retire with a fear of being unable to sleep, your fear 
will be justified. If you are over-tired, hungry, too warm, 
too cold, or if your room is poorly ventilated, sleep will be 
difficult. A natural function can be performed only under 
natural conditions. Comfort, complete relaxation, fresh 
air, and a mind free from worry are necessary to refreshing 
sleep. 

A feather bed is not the consummate expression of com¬ 
fort. A well built mattress that does not sag anywhere, a 
mattress that is soft enough to yield to the body, yet firm 
enough to support it, is the right mattress. One pillow is 
generally necessary for comfort. Too many pillows throw 
the head forward and induce a double chin. Sleeping with¬ 
out a pillow often causes too much circulation in the head. 
Bedding should be light in weight, but warm, and should be 
put on the bed smoothly. Time spent in making a bed prop¬ 
erly is not wasted. The windows of the bedroom should be 
open, no matter what the weather. But here exercise judg¬ 
ment. Windows should be open from the top in order to 
allow the foul air to go out and from the bottom to permit 
the pure air to come in. Do not let a strong wind blow di¬ 
rectly upon you. It may cause stiffness. Let the opening 
at the top be double that at the bottom. Do not sleep in a 


T rvenly-three 


draught Try to place your bed so that you are not directly 
under the window in a breeze, but in the centre of a freely 
circulating current of air. 

How many times have you partaken of a midnight re¬ 
past of indigestible delicacies saying, “Oh, I know it’s wicked 
to eat these things just before going to bed”? Self inflicted 
punishment is not a lark, A little restraint will mean a 
whole lot of comfort. Healthful sleep is as impossible on a 
full stomach as on an empty one. If you are retiring too 
long after dinner time, it is wise to take a little warm milk 
and crackers or something else easily digestible. Sometimes 
sleep does not come simply because the body needs food. 

YOU CANNOT MAKE UP A DEFICIT IN SLEEP 
as you can make up a deficit in a bank account. Sleeping 
late in the morning will not afford the same benefit as going 
to bed early at night. There is no law as to how many 
hours of sleep are really necessary. Seven or eight hours 
suffice for most women, but the number of hours is less 
important than their regularity. An habitual bedtime and 
an habitual rising hour are health habits. If they are both 
early hours they become beauty habits. 

You have heard the expression “Beauty Sleep.” All 
sleep is beauty sleep. When you lie in bed, relax every 
muscle, do not clench your fists, do not pull up your knees, 
do not squeeze your eyelids tightly—relax every muscle. 
Let your body take its own fine, free, natural lines. Rest. 
Sleep that is rest is beauty sleep. An hour before midnight 
is worth two hours after midnight. 

DURING THE DAY a healthy person does not require 
sleep, but a few moments of repose and relaxation will often 
take a daytime tiredness out of you. When riding in a car, 
or while waiting for a number at a telephone, close your 
eyes. If you have a minute to spare, sit down in a chair and 


T » cnty-1 our 


loosen the tension of your body. Lower your eyelids. 
Think of nothing. You will rise refreshed. 

SLEEP IS THE TIME FOR REST, relaxation, 
restoration and repair. If you abuse sleep, you steal your 
own beauty. Rest and beauty thus lost cannot be regained. 

If you have an evening engagement and wish to appear 
at your sparkling best, arrange your time so as to spare 
twenty minutes to half an hour for rest before starting to 
dress. Then really rest. Lie down flat on your back so that 
every part of your back touches the bed. Let your hands 
relax at your sides. Close your eyes softly without pressure 
at the eyelids. “Do not hold the bed—let the bed hold you.” 

This will prepare you for a vivacious evening. Twenty 
minutes of rest a day chase years of age and cares away. 



T to e n ly - f iv e 


Olejcmtme s 5 

HE Saturday night bath in the tin tub is not a relic 
of medievalism, but a well remembered experience 
in the lives of many modern women. Surely the 
greatest revolutions of the human race are those 
that happen silently! For to-day it is hardly neces¬ 
sary to advise a woman to bathe daily. The patented tooth 
brush and the tooth paste or powder packed in sanitary tubes 
or bottles are innovations of the twentieth century. There 
are few women to-day who need to be reminded that the 
twice-a-day use of tooth brush and dentifrice are health 
necessities. Women have developed a personal pride that is 
dissatisfied with anything that savors of the unclean. 

It is not an introduction to soap and water, therefore, 
but a word of information concerning their most advan¬ 
tageous use that the modern woman requires. 

THINK OF YOUR SKIN AS AN ORGAN, secreting 
impurities, replacing worn out cells, living and breathing. 
If the pores are closed, the skin can neither breathe nor 
discharge waste. Bathing is the only operation that per¬ 
mits the skin to function naturally. 

Bathing at regular hours trains the 
skin to regular habits and it will 
always be healthy and sweet and 
clean. 

THE BENEFITS OF A HOT 
BATH with plenty of pure soap, 
can hardly be overestimated. Warm 
water not only cleanses the skin, 
but relaxes the nerve tension of the 
entire body. It induces calm and 
invites sleep. 




T v> e n ly - s i x 




















LATHER THE BODY THOROUGHLY and use 
a long handled brush with medium hard bristles to rub 
away the soil and waste from the skin. For tender 
skin, a coarse Turkish wash cloth is adequate. A warm 
bath not only makes one clean, but makes one feel clean 
—and the sensation is luxurious. Do not remain in the 
bath more than ten or fifteen minutes. The steam arising 
from hot water is likely to cause dizziness and the heat 
of the water itself will make your skin soft and flabby. 
Skin that is softened every day by steaming water soon 
becomes subject to wrinkles. Moreover, too much hot 
water can debilitate the nervous system. To overcome 
these enervating effects, follow the hot bath with a cold 
shower. If for any reason your nervous system does not 
respond to the stimulating effect of the cold shower, let 
the hot water run out of the bath tub slowly, turn on the 
cold water and permit it gradually to lower the temperature 
of the water. Stay in the tub until the temperature of the 
water is as cool as you can comfortably enjoy it. 

THE SHOWER BATH is the most delightful and 
healthful daily habit if the nervous system is in good order. 
If it is indulged in every morning, it will give vigor to the 
body and beauty to the face. Let the water run medium 
warm, stand under it, and lather the body thoroughly. Turn 
the cold water faucet just a bit further so that luke warm 
water rinses off all the soap suds. Then turn off the hot water 
completely, and let the fresh cold water pour over you, a 
few seconds the first time, then another few, until you can 
stand for almost a minute without feeling chilled. Then 
take your big Turkish towel and rub! Feel your blood race 
through your veins and suffuse your skin with a rosy flush! 
Watch the color mount to your cheeks. Enjoy the health 
tingle. The tiredness will all be gone, superseded by a new 
early morning vitality. You will be ready for a new day. 


T i»enty- seven 


If you derive pleasure from a real cold shower or 
plunge, take it. It is a wonderful tonic and stimulant. But 
the only one who can tell whether it is good for you or not 
is yourself, for you know whether you feel invigorated or 
depressed after it. 

NEVER TAKE A BATH IN A COLD ROOM 
and never expose yourself to draughts immediately after 
bathing. When the pores are open the body is susceptible 
to chill. You have often been advised not to bathe too soon 
after eating. Do you know why? The blood and energy of 
the body is then concentrated near your stomach, trying to 
digest the food that has just entered your body. The 
stimulating effect of a bath at the surface of the body with¬ 
draws the blood from where it is required and indigestion 
follows. Let your digestive system perform its necessary 
work first. In other words, wait at least an hour after 
eating before you take a bath. 

The Turkish bath is cleansing, stimulating and refresh¬ 
ing. It should not be indulged in more than once a week. 
Care should be taken not to expose the body to cold 
afterward. 

If you do not neglect the corners when cleaning your 
house, do not neglect the crevices when bathing yourself. 
Bathe completely. Cleanliness is the greatest feminine 
charm. Without cleanliness, beauty is no virtue. 



T en ly - eight 




HERE are hundreds of books on diet, and thousands 
of books about cooking. Yet one might read them 
all from cover to cover and still be unfamiliar 
with the common sense of food and drink, which, 
epitomized in a single sentence, is—eat only when 
you are hungry and drink even when you are not thirsty! 


THREE MEALS A DAY are essential to perfect 
health. The amount eaten at each meal should be deter¬ 
mined only by one’s appetite and reaction. If you are 
accustomed to a mid-day dinner, breakfast and supper 
should be light. If you take dinner in the evening, breakfast 
and luncheon should be light. Over-eating is a physical 
offense. Eating between meal exhausts the energy of the 
stomach so that it cannot function properly when it is re¬ 
quired to digest a regular meal. Eat regularly. Eat a simple 
breakfast—fruit, cereal, eggs if you wish them, toast and a 
hot drink. Do not eat meat for breakfast. All your early 
morning energy will concentrate itself on your digestive 
system and leave very little vitality for your brain. If the 
cup of coffee you drink at breakfast time is the only one you 
take during the day, it will not harm you. But, just as a 
test, try to do without it for one or two mornings. If you 
feel dull or oppressed wth a headache, the coffee is acting as 
a stimulant and should be stopped until such a time as you 
can depend upon fresh air and exercise to give you the 
proper stimulation and vigor. Then drink coffee simply to 
satisfy your desire for a warm drink at breakfast time. 


EAT LUNCHEON. Many women who are at home 


T e n IJ) - n i n c 




alone during the mornings neglect to provide luncheon for 
themselves, or else take a hurried cold repast of something 
left over from the night before. This they do three or four 
days a week, the other days making luncheon engagements 
and feasting on elaborate noon-time spreads. There is no 
more certain method of courting indigestion. Take the 
trouble to prepare your luncheon, no matter how simple its 
character. Have something palatable, not a makeshift, for 
only food that is palatable is digestible. If you are at busi¬ 
ness, choose your eating place with consideration for the 
quality of the food rather than for the artistic appearance of 
the dishes. Generous portions of wholesome food are 
worth more as a diet than “atmosphere.” 

It is a fallacy to believe that one can eat a late luncheon, 
stop for tea about four-thirty and then enjoy dinner at seven. 
Appetite does not return so soon after it has been satiated. 
It is most beneficial to come to dinner hungry, to eat suffi¬ 
cient food, and to have the courage to leave your dessert if 
you feel satisfied before it reaches the table. 

If your dinner hour is at seven and you remain awake 
until eleven or later, eat some fruit, crackers or other light 
food rather than go to bed hungry. Extravagant spreads 
before bed time are poisonous. Your digestive organs do 
not delight in working overtime any more than you your¬ 
self, and they are quick to rebel. 

DRINK WATER. Drink it whenever you think of it, 
even if you are not thirsty, with the single exception of not 
drinking during meals. Do you realize that three-fourths of 
your body is water? How can you expect to maintain its 
form and proportions if three-fourths of your diet is solid 
food? A glass of cold water immediately after rising is a 
tonic. Avoid iced water. It chills the stomach. Drink 
plenty of cool, refreshing water between meals and you will 


Thirty 


enjoy a healthy complexion, limber muscles and supple 
joints. 

Advice on the subject of diet is incomplete until one is 
reminded of the old but valuable adage: 

“An apple a day keeps the doctor away.” 

You may add an orange to make the prescription 
doubly effective. 



Thirty-one 




ODERN life is far too sedentary for good health. 
Women sit at bridge parties, sit at the theatre, sit 
and entertain their friends, sit and read at home, 
sit in an automobile to be transported about town— 
sit, sit, sit, and never a bit of exercise! The woman 
who does her own housework sits down to rest when she is 
finished. The woman who sits all day at business comes 
home at night and sits down for relaxation. And then we 
wonder why our cheeks are sallow, why we become tired 
quickly, why we have headaches, and why the schedule of 
our daily lives seems a little lacking in variety. 

The blood supply runs low, the organs become con¬ 
gested, and the vitality of the body ebbs from lack of exer¬ 
cise. The improvement in one's physical condition, in one’s 
looks, and in one’s mental attitude from a little regular 
exercise is so miraculous that it is almost impossible to 
believe that so many women lack the will power to follow 
a simple program of exercise and sport. 

Tomorrow morning, the instant you open your eyes, 



7 hi r ty - t v> o 



























jump out of bed, throw open the window as far as it will 
go and take ten deep breaths, raising your hands slowly 
as you inhale, lowering them slowly as you exhale. Fling 
your arms up over your head ten times, bringing them 
downward each time at the sides. Now bend your elbows 
so that your finger tips touch just in front of your chest, 
then extend your arms sideways keeping your head high, so 
that you feel your chest expand and your shoulder blades 
contract. Do this ten times. 

Now stand with your feet wide apart. First bend your 
body forward from the hips, letting your arms swing down 
between your legs. Second, straighten the body, raising 
your arms high above your head. Third, stretch your arms 
out to the sides and bend sideward touching the floor with 
one hand. Fourth, return to an erect position. Do this 
ten times, alternating five times to the left and five times to 
the right. 

Now stand upright, put your hands on your hips, rotate 
your body from the waistline. This will relieve the con¬ 
gestion in your organs. Then keeping your hands on your 
hips, rise on your toes and bend your knees, being sure to 
maintain a good balance. Practice until you can do this ten 
times without losing your balance. Lastly, hop twenty 
times on each foot. With a few more deep breaths you are 
finished. You will feel the blood leaping through your 
veins. You will want to start the day’s work without a 
moment’s delay. 



T hit i}f - thr e e 


This should take about ten minutes. If you do each 
little exercise earnestly, the time will prove the most valu¬ 
able ten minutes of the day. Try it again before you retire. 
You will sleep much more restfully. 

WALK! There, in one single word, is the index to 
better health. Walking is the one sport in which every 
woman may indulge. You do not need special equipment for 
it. You do not need a special time or place for it. You can 
do it alone, with a comrade or with a crowd. Get out into 
the open. Breathe deeply. Hold your chest and your head 
high. Weight forward. Walk with a destination or with¬ 
out one, but walk as if you had one. Don’t stroll. Don’t 
race. Wear comfortable shoes and comfortable clothes 
and go! 

Feel the tiredness drop away from you. Feel clean 
thoughts and new ideas brush the cobwebs out of your brain. 
Feel yourself pulsing with a new vitality. Feel yourself 
vibrant with new hopes and new ambitions. Walk any¬ 
where. Rise a bit earlier in the morning so that you can 
walk to the next station before taking your train. If you 
own an automobile do not always have it meet you at your 
door and bring you back to your door. Leave it behind 
some time or meet it half way. Shun conveyances for short 
distances. Walk, walk at any time. Walk in the country 
if you can, in the daylight hours if possible, but walk. Try 



T hir ty-f o ur 


one mile today. You will want to walk two tomorrow. Then 
three—that’s it! You will feel the strain in your legs a bit at 
first of course, but then you will feel the surge in your lungs, 
your muscles, in your appetite, in your complexion. Make 
walking a habit and feel health rise within you. Walk! 
Walking is the exercise that preserves youth to the youthful 
and restores youth to those who are threatened with losing 
it. If you cannot sleep, walk, and enjoy physical fatigue. 
Sleep must come when the body requires it. If you cannot 
eat, walk, and enjoy the appetite that must come when the 
stomach is empty. If you are low spirited, walk, and enjoy 
the pleasure that must come when the body is flushed with 
the glow of exercise. 

Walk and learn the brisk freshness of early morning, 
the peaceful calm of twilight, the soft intimacy of night. 
Walk and become acquainted with new places and new faces. 
Walk right out of the valleys of your every day existence 
and climb the hills of a bigger and better life. Walking is 
the highroad to health, and the byroad to beauty. Walk! 

If you do the little ten minute drill morning and night, 
and walk whenever possible, it is not absolutely necessary 
to spare time for the other sports. But, if you have the 
time, every sport is a forward march on the road to health 
and beauty. I 

GOLF is a fascinating game that makes walking attrac¬ 
tive. Moreover, it is excellent exercise. If you once 
induce yourself to arrive at the golf course, it is easy to 
cultivate the habit and become a “fan.” You will want to 
develop proficiency—and that means exercise, and sport, 
and health. 

TENNIS and ROWING are strenuous, but they are 
both splendid exercises. The most enjoyable thing about all 
sports is that, as soon as you persuade yourself to make the 


T hir ty - f i\> & 


initial attempt, you want to indulge again and again. The 
spell of the sport takes hold of you. You learn the differ¬ 
ence between near health and real health—the health of 
out-of-doors. 

HORSEBACK RIDING is a capital exercise, especially 
for those who are trying to reduce. An important thing to 
remember is to have adequate support about the abdomen. 
Then ride—and know the sport of kings. 

SKATE ON THE ICE in winter time. There is nothing 
so keen as the tang of the winter air—nothing so invigora¬ 
ting as bending your body to the wind and sailing over the 
smooth stretches of clear ice, no appetite so wholesome as 
that which follows an hour or two of skating. 

LEARN TO SWIM. This is not merely one of the 
most healthful of exercises, and most enjoyable of sports, 
but it is an essential to safety. Learn how to swim and then 
swim! It reduces the flesh, produces grace and induces 
health! 

THE REMEDY FOR MENTAL STRAIN is not rest 
but relaxation through physical activity. The antidote for 
housework is out-of-doors exercise. Go in quest of exercise 
and sport and you will never have to go in quest of health, 
beauty or good temper. And then remember: 

“Rest is not quitting the busy career; 

Rest is the fitting of self to its sphere. ” 



Thirty-six 


CLOT 




n> 



AVE you ever observed a woman in quest of a new 
frock say, “I want something individual, something 
different.” 

“Yes, madame, I have just what you want—it is the 
newest thing and all the smart women are wear¬ 


ing it.” 

“Oh, that’s exactly what I want,” replies madame. 
Because “all the smart women are wearing it,” she 
convinces herself that she can wear it with individuality 
and distinction. 


She cannot. She can merely be dressed in the height 
of fashion—gowned and outfitted according to the mode 
of the moment. But if she is dressed in the fashion of good 
taste, the passing of the moment will not stamp her clothes 
with antiquity. 

You have known women, have you not, who have many 
clothes by actual count, but whose every costume is so ultra 
in fashion that its novelty wears off at the second appear¬ 
ance? And then you have known other women who appear 
to be well dressed at all times. Yet, if you stop to take 
count of the clothes that they possess, you find them to 
number comparatively few. This is the difference between 
being conspicuously modish and inconspicuously well 
dressed. The second is the secret of good taste known to 
the well-bred woman. 


Thirty-seven 












The woman of refinement is not dominated by her 
clothes. She cultivates herself first, and then chooses 
clothes that harmonize with and interpret herself rather 
than advertise herself. 

She cultivates the pleasing rather than the compelling 
in design, the restrained rather than the resplendent in color. 
She insists upon good taste rather than novelty in all things. 

It is not only a woman’s privilege but her duty to be as 
well dressed as possible. Learn therefore to discriminate 
and choose those creations of fashion which you are certain 
will not only answer to the question “Is it smart?” but also 
to the critical query, “Is it refined?” 

Next, choose your clothes with a sense of the fitness 
of things. Anticipate the occasions for which they will be 
worn and select your costumes with regard for their appro¬ 
priateness.. Reserve bright colors only for evening and 
sports wear. Because some brilliant shade happens to be 
a fad, do not commit the indiscretion of selecting it for a 
town or daytime costume. It may be inappropriate, unbe¬ 
coming and impractical. You would probably tire of it 
quickly. Select fabrics with discrimination, exercising care 
to have them in harmony with the fashion. 

It is interesting as well as encouraging to note that of 
recent years women of recognized taste are becoming more 
sensible with regard to the selection of day clothes. The 
favor which has been accorded the sports costume is partly 
responsible. For it is the freedom of the sports costume 
which has been introduced into the daytime fashion. 

Tailored suits show more simplicity of line, a definite 
relaxation from anything masculine or rigid, a definite de¬ 
parture from the elaborate—commendable because of their 
excellent practicality, yet distinctly smart and becoming. 
Tweeds, woolen textiles with rough, unfinished surfaces, 


7 hirl}} -eight 


worsted Jerseys in heather mixtures and kindred fabrics 
make these town suits. They are not extravagant in price, 
yet women who wear them are distinguished as well dressed. 

The fashion of the topcoat also illustrates this ten¬ 
dency toward preserving smartness while introducing free¬ 
dom and practicality. This is a loose, usually belted, coat 
without embellishment of any kind, also made of a service¬ 
able woolen textile, to be worn over a dress or suit. It is 
more than a fashion—it is a convenience. 

Low heeled Oxfords—not the blunt toe affairs that once 
bore the stigma “orthopedic”—but well lasted, sports-like, 
comfortable shoes are worn by the smartest women. 

Hats of soft fabrics without any stiffness, hats that fit 
closely, yet are as different from the straight-laced turban 
of old as they are from the picture hats of yesterday, belong 
in the category of these comfortable yet engagingly smart 
fashions. 

This serves to illustrate the type of clothes that is 
identified with both smartness and good taste. The same 
good taste can be expressed in clothes for more formal wear. 
But in all instances select your clothes with a fine regard 
for simplicity and restraint, making use of the prevailing 
vogue to guide your choice of line and the little finishing 
touches that mean so much—but never let what “they are 
wearing” be the law that determines what you will wear. 

Since it is undeniable that clothes can definitely im¬ 
prove a woman’s appearance, it is well worth while to spend 
a little time deciding what is the best type of clothes for 
your individual self, what are the most becoming colors, 
what you can wear most advantageously. It is an art to 
select the right dress, the most becoming hat, the shoes that 
complete the costume—and create not only a smart en¬ 
semble, but particularly your costume. It is an art worth 


Thirty- nine 


mastery, for the reward is a justifiable self-pride and the 
approbation of others. 

It would be ridiculous to attempt to lay down laws 
regulating the clothes and the colors becoming to certain 
types of women. For as soon as one attempts to dress 
one’s type, one is no longer dressing oneself. Remember 
only that the well dressed woman is smart because her 
clothes are in harmony with herself. She is particular 
about the details of her costume, such as the scrupulous 
cleanliness of her gloves and the orderliness of her shoes. 
She is never conspicuous by the clothes she wears. Above 
all, the subject of dress is no more obtrusive in her con¬ 
versation than are clothes themselves on her person. 



F orty 




WOMAN with a poor complexion is a woman 
without charm. The symmetry of her features, the 
color of her eyes, the softness of her hair, the curve 
of her lips—even these give her no true claim to 
beauty if her skin is not radiantly clear and free from 
blemish. On the contrary, if a woman’s skin is smooth and 
white, suffused with pink at the cheeks, innocent of wrinkles 
delicate in texture, it will shed glory on plain or even irreg¬ 
ular features. 


A poor complexion is a social stigma. A woman who 
is conscious of an ugly skin will seclude hereself from 
society in order to hide her face from critical eyes. One 
cannot meet people without showing one’s face, and the dis¬ 
approving glances of others are more cruel than one’s own 


F or ty- one 

























mirror. A poor complexion does not permit a woman to 
forget it for a single moment. She is never at ease, she can 
never become wholly interested in anything else. She is so 
sensitive that every glance seems condemnation. The 
mental pain exceeds by far the physical discomfort. A 
poor complexion is a confession of unwholesome habits and 
lack of will power. Healthful habits will keep the com¬ 
plexion clear. But should it become blemished, persistent 
effort will restore its freshness. There is no excuse for a 
poor complexion! 

LAZINESS, LATE HOURS AND RICH FOODS are 
the three enemies of a healthy complexion. Get outdoors 
more often and stay out longer. Fresh air is the first 
requisite of a clear skin. Exercise! Systematic exercise that 
stimulates the circulation is absolutely necessary if you 
would drive the impurities from your skin. Retire early. 
The benefits of regular rest are first manifested by freshness 
and youthfulness of complexion. Avoid highly sweetened 
or highly seasoned foods. A maltreated stomach takes 
vengeance on the skin. 

SATIN-SMOOTH SKIN, faultless, delicate, flushed 
with health glow—this is what every woman desires. This 
can be your skin, your complexion. It is worth the effort. 
Begin now, no matter what the condition of your skin, and 
do not relax your persistence until you can say it over to 
yourself with pride “satin-smooth skin, faultless, delicate, 
flushed with the health glow—yes, that is my skin!” 

Warm water, pure soap, a soft-bristled complexion 
brush, and a Turkish towel are the first requisites. To be 
healthy your skin must be clean. Wash your face thor¬ 
oughly with the smooth, soft warm lather. Then take 
your complexion brush and rub, slowly, carefully, upward 
and outward, until every pore is cleansed and your face 
feels the stimulated circulation. Now dissolve every par- 


F or ly -1 n> o 


tide of soap in luke warm water. Then dash cold water 
over your face, brisk and refreshing. A bit of ice with a 
few drops of benzoin, folded in a towel and rubbed over the 
cheeks will flood them with color. Dry your face with a 
Turkish towel, but do not rub it hard, for the skin of the 
face is tender. A little witch hazel applied with a piece of 
absorbent cotton is healing, and acts as an antiseptic. While 
trying to better your complexion, limit your cosmetics to a 
simple, pure vanishing cream and a good face powder. The 
vanishing cream provides a smooth surface for the applica¬ 
tion of the powder, which is otherwise likely to stick to the 
face in little patches. 

THE CORRECT SOAP for your skin can be deter¬ 
mined only by yourself. Choose one that leaves your skin 
feeling clean and smooth and soft. If there is the slightest 
burning or drawing sensation, the soap is too strong. Pure 
Castile soap is the safest and best for the greatest number 
of complexions. Scented soaps are costly without being 
beneficial. Choose a complexion brush with bristles that 
are just stiff enough to stimulate circulation, and not stiff 
enough to make the skin sore or rough. Buy a good cold 
cream to soften the skin after exposure to the wind and 
dust. The best creams are made of good vegetable and 
almond oils, which are expensive. A good cream therefore 
cannot be cheap. Choose a vanishing cream that absorbs 
and permits powder to be applied smoothly over it. 

WASH THE FACE THOROUGHLY before retiring, 
making sure that no trace of powder and no speck of dust 
remains in the pores over night. When the face has been 
thoroughly cleansed and softened with warm water, the 
following lotion, rubbed gently into the pores will keep the 
skin soft and delicate. It should be used every night 
before retiring. 


For ly-ihree 


Tincture of Benzoin, 1 dram, 

Spirits of Camphor, 1 dram, 

Orange Flower Water, 1 dram, 

Gelatin, 4 drams, 

Powdered Alum, 15 grains, 

Glycerin, 2 ounces, 

Mutton Suet, 8 ounces. 

Dissolve the alum in the orange flower water, add the 
gelatin and soak until the latter is thoroughly softened. 
Then add the glycerin and heat on a water-bath until the 
gelatin is dissolved. Melt the suet and add it to the gelatin 
solution, very slowly, stirring constantly. Stir in the 
remaining ingredients in the same manner- Then remove 
from the heat, and with an egg beater beat briskly until 
it cools. 

This is a tonic for the skin, and 
it will keep the complexion youth¬ 
fully free from wrinkles. You will 
be gratefully surprised at the ex¬ 
quisite quality of your skin if you 
use it faithfully. 

IF THE PORES ARE EN¬ 
LARGED, add twenty drops of 
benzoin to the water when wash¬ 
ing. Rub the face with ice before 
drying, and apply a little witch 
hazel afterwards. This acts as an 
astringment and leaves the skin 
smooth and soft. A simple and 
excellent lotion for daily use to 
give the skin a velvety texture is: 

Almond Milk, \y 2 ounces, 

Eau de Rose, 6 ounces, 

Benzoin, 5 drops. 



For l y -four 



















BLACKHEADS are an accumulation of dust clogging 
the pores. Do not touch the ugly little black spots with 
the fingers. Your nails may poison them and then it will 
be far more difficult to cure them. But, being only dirt, 
they may be removed with the time-honored dirt eradicator, 
soap and water. Cleanse the face thoroughly with warm 
water, Castile soap and a complexion brush. If they are 
very near the surface it is safe to press them gently with 
the side of a sterilized needle, applying alcohol to the spot 
immediately with clean absorbent cotton. The following 
lotion will remove the most persistent blackheads and keep 
them away provided the body is in a healthy condition. 
Talcum Powder, 1 ounce, 

Oxide of Zinc, 2 drams, 

Pulverized Camphor, 2 grains. 

Mix Carefully. 

Dust this freely over the face, and into the crevices 
at the sides of the nose. Leave it on for a while then rinse 
the face in warm water to which about twenty drops of 
benzoin have been added. 

SUNBURN is much more easily prevented than cured. 
If, before exposure to the brilliant sunshine of summertime, 
you apply a soft, pure cold cream to your skin and then 
dust it with a good powder, you will not suffer from a 
blistering and painful red sunburn, but will enjoy only the 
healthful stamp of the outdoors. 

FRECKLES, on the other hand, cannot be prevented, 
but it is not difficult to remove them with a little patience 
and persistence. After completely cleansing the face with 
warm water and rinsing it thoroughly, apply this lotion 
twice daily: 

Powdered Alum, y 2 ounce, 

Elder Flower Water, 10 ounces, 

Lemon Juice, *4 ounce. 


Forty-f iv e 


If the freckles are dark, use this remedy. It is a little 
more potent but likewise harmless. Spread this mixture 
between thin muslin and allow it to remain on the affected 
parts as long as possible, preferably at night. 

Grated Horseradish, 2 drams, 

Corn Meal, 2 drams, 

Buttermilk, 2 ounces, 

Eau de Rose, 1 ounce. 

Sponging the face in plain buttermilk is also helpful. 

At the end of the summer, when the tan of the vacation 
time appears unsightly with dance or dinner frocks, it may 
be gradually lightened and successfully removed with this 
excellent sunburn lotion: 

Zinc Oxide, *4 ounce, 

Sodium Borate, 2 drams, 

Glycerin, 1 ounce, 

Extract of Jasmine, *4 ounce, 

Bay Rum, \y 2 ounces, 

Water to Give Solution Weight of 10 ounces. 

SALLOW CHEEKS express lack of nourishment. 
They need building up just as a poorly nourished body needs 
food. The best skin food is cocoa butter. After the pores 
are opened with warm water, rub melted cocoa butter with a 
gentle upward and outward circular motion into the skin, 
taking care not to rub too hard, for the muscles may become 
softened, and that is the first step toward wrinkles. If the 
skin is dry, you will find this excellent nourishment: 

Oil of Thebroma, 4 ounces, 

Hydrous Wool Fat, 4 ounces, 

Culinary Cottonseed Oil, 1 ounce, 

Boric Acid, 2 drams, 

Tincture of Benzoin, 2 drams. 


Forty- six 


Melt the solid fats on a water-bath and with a small 
portion of the melted mixture rub the boric acid to a smooth 
paste. Combine with the melted fats, then add the oil 
slowly. Stirring constantly, add the tincture in the same 
manner. Remove from the heat and beat briskly until the 
mixture is cold, and has been made light and fluffy. 

DO NOT USE DEPILATORIES on the face. In the 
first place their results are only temporary and the hair 
returns. But, more than that, they are dangerous to the 
skin and often cause eruptions if not used carefully. Do 
not use X-Ray treatment unless advised by a physician. 
Too often this causes a depression of the skin and leaves it 
lifeless and colorless. 

Do not pull out the hair. This removes the hair for 
the moment, but does not destroy it, as the very action of 
pulling it out stimulates the follicle which is its root to 
send forth another thicker and blacker hair to take its place. 

There is only one safe and scientific way to remove 
superfluous hair, and that is with the electric needle used 
by an expert. This process destroys the follicle and the 
hair cannot grow again. But be sure of the reliability of 
the person whom you permit to use it. In the hands of an 
inexperienced person the skin may be scarred. 

THE NECK requires a few moments of care every 
night to fill out the hollow places and produce soft, well 
rounded lines. Dip the finger tips in melted cocoa butter and 
massage the neck and throat with a gentle rotary motion for 
about ten or fifteen minutes. Sharp angles will soon round 
into gentle curves, and firm flesh fill age-telling hollows. 

And now, remember, the face is the mirror of the mind. 
Unpleasant thoughts and worries turn the corners of the 
mouth down and trace little webs in the corners of the eyes 


Forty-seven 


as surely and inevitably as cheerful thoughts raise the lips 
and bring sparkle to the eyes. Massage or lotions are in¬ 
effective if you do not first assist them with physical health 
and mental optimism. 



Forty-eight 




curls, 


HROUGHOUT the ages men and women have 
treasured their hair as a peacock plumes its feathers. 
They probed the mysteries of oils and perfumes 
even before they became acquainted with the simpler 
benefits of soap and water. Now that flowing 
well tended beards, and grotesque moustaches are 


no longer considered essential graces among men, does it 
not seem that women should accept a two-fold obligation 
for keeping their hair silken, soft and beautiful? 


Beautiful hair is not necessarily hair of abnormal 
length, or hair that keeps in natural curl as perfectly as if 
artificially waved. It is not hair of a particular color or 
texture. It is healthful hair—hair neither too oily nor too 
dry, hair that shows the silken sheen of proper care, hair 


Forty- nine 















of even growth, even coloring, hair that shows a clean, clear 
scalp wherever it is parted. 

There is no standard for beautiful hair, just as there is 
no standard of beauty in frames for pictures. An elaborate 
French oil painting may be set in an ornate and finely carved 
gold frame. A delicate etching requires a simple frame of 
plain, rich wood. And so with a woman’s hair, the frame 
for her face. Golden hair like an aureole of sunshine may 
frame a face of fair complexion. Soft brown hair, rich with 
veins of glinting copper, is exquisite with slightly darker 
complexion. Black hair with the gleam and lustre of velvet 
in moonlight beautifies the face with olive coloring. Nature, 
as a rule, is an artist of perfect taste, and chooses her frame 
to conform exactly with the character of her picture. How 
unwise it is, then, to disapprove the choice of the master 
artist and change the coloring she deemed best, even when 
she decides to soften the tones of the frame to suit the mel¬ 
lowing colors of her picture, and changes the shading to 
silvery gray! 

Is there anything that advertises age like hair “re¬ 
stored” to black with the gray peeping through at the roots? 
or hair “treated” blonde with its natural coloring of brown 
evident at the parting? Do not be induced to dye the hair. 
Dyed hair is not associated with refinement. It is un¬ 
natural and what is unnatural can never be beautiful. To 
grow old gracefully is a fine art. Hair turning softly gray 
in the natural process of growing older bestows dignity and 
charm. 

In a country that suffers severe climatic changes such 
as very hot summers and bitterly cold winters, and where 
women vary their activities with each change of season, it 
is hardly reasonable to expect that the hair can care for itself 
in all weathers and under all conditions. Just as the 
body cannot maintain a comfortable temperature without 


Fifty 


change of clothing suitable to weathers and occasions, so 
the hair requires attention with the changing seasons. 

THE HAIR SHOULD BE SHAMPOOED once every 
three or four weeks according to the condition of the scalp. 
That is, an oily scalp should be washed every three weeks, a 
very dry scalp not more often than once a month, so that the 
natural oils of the head will have an opportunity to secrete. 

There is no need to rub the scalp as one rubs soiled 
linen on a washboard. A thoroughly pure soap well lathered 
and well rinsed will cleanse adequately. An egg is an ex¬ 
cellent shampoo if beaten well with a little water and rubbed 
into the scalp with a rotary motion. Its effect is both 
cleansing and strengthening to the hair. Of the hundreds 
of advertised shampoos there may be two or three that will 
be beneficial to your particular hair and scalp. But rather 
than make your hair brittle and your scalp dry until you 
find the right one, use the simple, unfailing shampoo of plain 
pure soap and egg. 

If you wear any artificial hair such as a switch or curls, 
do not neglect to wash it every time you shampoo your hair. 
It accumulates just as much dirt and dust as your own hair 
and requires cleansing just as frequently. 

Be sure to rinse the scalp thoroughly. Dry particles 
of soap are irritants that cause dandruff. Rinse thoroughly 
in warm water to dissolve the soap, then in cool water—not 
cold—to insure reaction of the circulation. For drying 
the hair, the friction of a towel is an inestimable tonic. 
To stimulate circulation is to stimulate growth. If the 
weather permits, let the fresh air and sunlight assist you. 
If the scalp is inclined to be dry, a little pure olive oil or 
vaseline rubbed in immediately after the shampoo is bene¬ 
ficial, as the pores have been stimulated to absorb it, and the 
scalp is clean so that the oil will not mix with dust or dirt. 


Fifty- one 


Keep the hair and head clean by brushing at night. 
But do not abuse them with overbrushing. Brushing is for 
the purpose of cleansing the hair from the dust that accumu¬ 
lates in the hair during the day, to remove dead hair, and to 
rouse the circulation. A brush with medium soft bristles 
will accomplish this. It is not necessary to use a wire 
bristle brush and rake the head with it, dragging out the 
new, tender hairs with the old ones. The comb should be 
of ivory or shell and the teeth should be blunt. Above all, 
keep the comb and brush clean. In this matter one cannot 
be too scrupulous. 

DANDRUFF in a mild form indicates dryness of the 
scalp and can be remedied by brushing, which stimulates 
the secretion of the natural oils in the scalp, massaging the 
roots with olive oil or vaseline, and frequently applying this 
simple lotion. It is an excellent tonic for hair that is falling 
out;. 

Bay Rum, 1 pint, 

Alcohol, y 2 pint, 

Castor Oil, 1*4 ounces, 

Quinine Sulphate, 30 grains, 

Tincture Cantharides, y 2 ounce. 

If dandruff is thick or irritating, it indicates some or¬ 
ganic disturbance and the best thing to do is to consult a 
reputable physician. It may be caused by fever or other 
disturbances alien to the scalp. 

Do not have the hair dressed or curled too often. Hot 
irons tend to dry and break the hair. Go without a hat 
whenever possible, except in extremely hot or cold weather. 
Hair is a precious gift of Nature and only natural processes 
and natural care will keep it in good condition. 

Take advantage of vacation time to give the hair a 
vacation. Use as few hairpins as possible. Let as much 


F if ty - in o 


air as possible reach the scalp. Use this tonic and let the 
scalp enjoy real nourishment: 

1 Pint Kerosene, 

5 Ounces Liquid Vaseline. 

Shake well and apply to the roots of the hair every 
other night, massaging it into the scalp gently with the 
finger tips. 

Do not neglect your hair. The only way to preserve it 
is to protect it. It is the coronet that can make of every 
woman a queen. 



F if / p - t hr e e 




HERE is one language that the whole world under¬ 
stands, and that is an unspoken language, the 
language of the eye. No tongue speaks more elo¬ 
quently. The clear, well rested eye with a lively 
interest in life, the eye that reflects a well-balanced 
mind and a logically-thinking brain, the eye that glows 
with the health of a well-cared-for body is a beautiful eye, 
whatever its color or shape. 


The color of the eye cannot be changed, but it can be 
intensified. The shape of the eye cannot be altered, but it 
can be improved. The clearness and brightness of the eye is 
entirely within your own care, and both of these qualities 
are regulated not only through outside treatment but inside 
mental attitude. No feature is so exact an index to a 
person—it is the little window where the soul shines 
through. 


Translate for a moment the language that the eye 
speaks. The round, wide open, staring eye says very little. 
Its gaze is empty, for things seem to pass through it without 
being retained. It gives forth as little as it receives. The 


F i fiy-1our 



too narrow eye expresses suspicion or trickery. Its outlook 
is narrow and distrustful. The eye that flashes and 
twinkles is a mischievous eye, fascinating, yet not expres¬ 
sive of intelligence. The clear, luminous eye with steady, 
level gaze denotes high character, high mindedness, and a 
high order of intellect. 

THE COLOR of the eye is as eloquent as its shape and 
quality. The lustreless blue eye expresses weakness or 
cruelty. The bright blue eye denotes the keen and well 
balanced mind. The violet blue eye suggests an impetuous 
spirit, yet it is not indicative of superior mental develop¬ 
ment. The bright brown eye is an intelligent eye, pleasing 
gentle, true. The exceptionally dark, fiery brown eye re¬ 
veals the quick tempered, passionate and often unscrupulous 
temperament. The gray eye expresses the just, intelligent, 
unselfish personality. Gray eyes are often eyes of genius. 
The green eye suggests cunning, the eye that changes from 
blue to green denotes swift changes of character. The 
color is brightened, the gaze steadied and the shape of the 
eye improved by mental development and culture. 

THE CONDITION of the eye is improved by care. The 
first requisite of caring for the eyes is caring for all the rest 
of the body. The sparkle of the eye is the reflection of 
physical well being. Everything that affects the nervous 
system affects the eyes, because they are surrounded by a 
fine and intricate net work of sympathetic nerves. Do not 
overwork your eyes. When you read or sew, be careful to 
have the right kind of light, neither too dim nor too bright, 
and concentrated upon your work, not upon your eyes. 

Closing the eyes frequently, if only for a moment at a 
time, greatly relieves strain and tension. Rolling the eyes 
around in their sockets and describing a wide circle tends 
to strengthen the eye muscles. 


Fifty - 1 i v 


If you anticipate an evening engagement after a tiring 
day, lie flat on your back for about twenty minutes and 
close your eyes, holding upon the eyelids a compress that 
has been soaked in a solution of hot water, witch hazel and 
boracic acid. You will arise refreshed in body and your 
eyes will lose their tired feeling and take on a new 
brightness. 

CLEANSE THE EYES carefully, for a speck of 
dust that remains to irritate the delicate texture of the eye¬ 
lid or eyeball may cause inflammation and pain. Never use 
any preparation in the eyes unless it is prescribed by a 
doctor for some particular purpose. A mild salt water 
solution, warm water with boracic acid, or diluted witch 
hazel are the only safe things to use on the eyes. Any one 
of them will cleanse the eyes effectively and relieve eye 
strain. If the eyes are inclined to weakness or if they have 
been exposed to strong wind or cold, a secretion sometimes 
gathers along the edges of the eyelids during sleep. Do not 
try to remove it with the fingers. It will easily dissolve 
when washed with boric acid diluted in warm water. If the 
eyes are inflamed, follow this treatment by applying warm 
water or milk with antiseptic cotton. 

If the eyes are inclined to smart or tear in cold or windy 
weather, it is beneficial and harmless to apply a lotion of 
nine ounces of distilled water mixed 
with one ounce of purest vinegar. 

There is a simple solution that will 
be found refreshing for tired eyes or 
eyes strained by too long exposure to 
sunshine or wind or too long concentra¬ 
tion upon reading or writing. When¬ 
ever the eyes feel the slightest weakness 
it will rest them like the sight of green 



Fifty-si 



grass and cool shadows. Drop it into the eyes with a 
sterilized eye dropper or bathe them with it: 

Zinc Sulphate, y 2 grain, 

Boracic Acid, y 2 ounce, 

3% Solution, 

Camphor Water, y 2 ounce. 

SQUINTING is a bad habit. It not only weakens the 
muscles around the eyes but it is a direct cause of wrinkles 
—and wrinkles about the eyes are an index to old age or 
lack of care. When exposed to strong sunlight at the sea 
shore, on boat trips, playing tennis, golf, or indulging in 
other outdoor exercise, it is advisable to wear shaded eye¬ 
glasses in order to avoid puckering the eye lids or squinting. 

Delicate massage of the eyelids and skin beneath the 
eyes with the tips of the fingers, using a good cold cream, 
will remove these tiny wrinkles. Use a soft stroke, as heavy 
rubbing will make this fine skin puffy. 

Above all, do not weep. Crying is a confession of 
weakness. A strong minded woman controls her emotions. 
The reward of restrained tears is strong, bright eyes—not 
faded, watery eyes with swollen eyelids! 

Respect your eyes. Avoid strain and overwork and 
their care will not demand much time or attention. Re¬ 
member that the eyes are never silent. They speak an 
eloquent language. What they say depends upon the 
woman! 

THE BROWS AND LASHES are companions in love¬ 
liness to the eyes, making a frame for the eye as the hair 
makes a frame for the face. With the right care, eyelashes 
can be made silken, curved and luxuriant, and the eyebrows 
evenly shaped and delicately arched. 

Massage the eyebrows lightly with pure olive oil, or 
white tube vaseline, using a small, fine eyebrow brush. 


Brush them upward and outward toward the temples, train¬ 
ing them into a fine, high arch. Be sure to keep the olive 
oil in the line that you wish the growth of your eyebrows to 
follow. A thick, bushy eyebrow lends an unkempt or fierce 
expression to the face, whereas a beautifully arched, smooth 
eyebrow is piquant and refined. If the eyelids too, are 
gently massaged with white vaseline or cocoa butter they 
will become flexible, soft, and free from wrinkles. 

Trim the eyelashes occasionally with a tiny pair of 
manicure scissors to stimulate their growth. Then, using 
your eyebrow brush and a little olive oil or white tube vase¬ 
line, brush the lashes on the upper eyelids upward and those 
on the lower eyelids downward. This will make them curl 
prettily. Take care not to get the oil into the eyes. Eye¬ 
lashes and eyebrows are well worth a little care—for is 
anything lovelier than softly curled eyelashes, gracefully 
arched brows framing a pair of sparkling eyes? The sub¬ 
ject has tempted poets for ages! 



Fijiy-eight 



con 




Mmmn. 


TFFTTFf 

ilMi vJIb -/ Jl a _ j v llj i i IB / vIIr i 


I HE features of a woman’s face may be exquisitely 
| formed, her complexion clear, her hair soft and 
| pretty, her eyes bright and her coloring fresh and 
| charming, but if, when she opens her mouth to speak 
or smile, she cannot display two rows of shining, 
pearly teeth, her other charms are not sufficient to offset this 
deficiency! On the other hand, plain, unattractive features 
often become radiant with the glow of a smile illumined 
by a set of gleaming, healthy teeth! 

What constitutes beautiful teeth? Teeth that are even 
in length, regular in outline, similar in coloring, teeth so 
thoroughly clean that they glisten, teeth so healthy that one 
is never conscious of having them. 


Rigid and scrupulous cleanliness is the first prere¬ 
quisite for healthy, beautiful teeth. There is hardly a 
woman today who does not brush her teeth as faithfully as 
she washes her face every morning. But it is impossible to 
urge too strenuously the additional brushing of the teeth at 
night, before retiring. Night time is the time when the little 
particles of food that lodge between the crevices of the teeth 
decompose, and the acid juices so formed eat their treacher¬ 
ous way through the white enamel and its underlying den¬ 
tine. By removing every particle of food, you remove the 


F if ty -nine 





possibilities of fermentation and avoid decay. Use a brush 
with bristles stiff enough not only to polish the surface of 
the teeth, but to clean between the teeth, and to stimulate 
the gums with a gentle massage. Use a rotary motion, up 
and down, not backward and forward, as the latter tends to 
scrape away the gum tissue. Truly healthy gums should 
be firm and pink in color and should not bleed when 
brushed. Brush the gums and teeth on all surfaces, inside 
as well as outside. There are many good dentifrices. 
Choose one that is not coarse or gritty, as care must be 
taken not to scratch the enamel of the teeth. A simple and 
effective dentifrice may be made of equal parts of pow¬ 
dered French chalk and orris root. To complete the toilet 
of the mouth, stiffen the tongue and clean with your tooth¬ 
brush or with a tongue scraper designed for this purpose. 

After a meal, particles of food should be carefully re¬ 
moved with a good dental floss. If acid formation and 
decomposition are prevented at all times by means of a 
persistent regimen of absolute cleanliness, it is possible to 
live without ever knowing the agonies of a toothache, for 
the teeth will be without decay. 

VISIT A DENTIST TWICE A YEAR even if your 
teeth do not ache, and have them examined and cleaned. 
Little cavities filled in time prevent big ones. Big ones are 
the ones that hurt. If it is ever necessary to remove a tooth, 
have it replaced as soon as 
possible, as spaces between 
the teeth cause the cheeks to 
sink in and become hollow in 
appearance. And moreover 
proper mastication is impos¬ 
sible without a complete set 
of sound teeth. Uneven teeth 
distort the contour of the 



Six ty 












cheeks. Careful bridgework often 
improves the outlines of a woman’s 
face by softening the curves of her 
cheeks. Be certain of the ability of 
the dentist. Poor dental work may 
cause more trouble than neglect. 

First in importance beyond all personal beauty or 
charm is a sweet-smelling, healthy breath. A woman can 
bear no greater stigma than a breath that betrays a disor¬ 
dered stomach. It is so unpleasant and repulsive that all 
other loveliness is powerless to counteract it. 

Good health, good digestion and clean teeth are the 
preservers of a sweet breath. Keep the bowels well 
regulated. Drink plenty of fresh water. Never forget that 
four-fifths of the composition of the body is water, and the 
body cannot furnish its own water supply. Water is the 
motive force that moves the entire machinery of the human 
system. 

The distress and unpleasant effects of gas in the 
stomach may be relieved and removed with half a teaspoon¬ 
ful of bicarbonate of soda and five or six drops of aromatic 
spirits of ammonia in half a tumbler of warm water. Mix 
it well, swallow a little and gargle with the rest. 

THE MOUTH should be thoroughly washed every day, 
or several times a day if necessary. Listerine and water is 
an antiseptic, pleasant mouth wash. Also warm water with 
a little salt is also effective. Lemon juice diluted with water 
is a strengthening and cleansing wash for the gums. 
Abstain from sweets and highly seasoned foods for a while. 
Gas cannot be formed by foods that do not tend to throw 
off gases. Get out into the open and inhale plenty of pure 
fresh air. If the air you breathe is fresh, the breath you 
exhale will be free from the suspicion of foulness. 



S i x ly - o n e 


Expectant mothers are often troubled with their teeth. 
One important cause of this is a lack of lime in the mouth. 
If this is supplied in the form of a mouth wash the con¬ 
dition of the teeth will be greatly improved and preserved 
from decay. 

Purchase some ordinary unslaked lime at a paint shop. 
Let a cupful stand in cold water until all the soil is thor¬ 
oughly washed away. Then pour off this water and put the 
washed lime into a quart of fresh cold water. Let this 
stand for twenty-four hours. After that time pour this 
water into a separate vessel and use as a mouth wash. The 
lime may be used again and again until it is entirely 
dissolved. 

AS TO THE LIPS—if the eyes are the soul of facial 
expression, the mouth is its heart. A word is in place, there¬ 
fore, regarding the care of the lips. Constrain them when 
the mouth is in repose and do not let them relax into loose, 
uncontrolled lines. Firmness of the lips is indicative of 
firmness of character. This does not mean, on the other 
hand, that the lips should be pressed together until they 
tighten into little puckers- Do not bite the lips to make 
them red. The texture of the lips is very delicate, and 
although this may seem temporarily effective, it tends to 
swell the lips, make them sore, and disfigure the contour of 
the mouth. 

Bathe the lips occasionally with water in which a 
small piece of alum has been dissolved. Then apply glycer¬ 
ine with a few drops of benzoin. This will keep the lips fresh 
and rosy. Do not moisten the lips. It not only subjects 
them to chapping, but it is an unlovely habit. If the lips 
are inclined to become chapped a simple lotion of equal parts 
of glycerine and rose water is a certain and harmless 
remedy. A well-formed, fresh and rosy mouth set in a clear, 


Sixly-tvo 


healthy face, lips that part to show two rows of shapely, 
glistening teeth—lips that form happy smiles, emit a sweet 
breath, and speak pleasant words—what inestimable charm! 
And how much of it all depends upon hygenic care and 
healthful living! 




LMOST a whole literature has been written on the 
subject of a woman’s hand. But a woman’s hand 
can express almost a whole literature by itself. It is 
as eloquent as spoken words and its very gesture is 
a variation of delicate phrasing. 

A thousand shades and shadows of thought lie in the 



Sixty-four 


















curves of the fingers, an index to character shows at the tip 
of every nail, limitless expressions of emotion reveal them¬ 
selves in the innumerable gestures of the hand, and in the 
palm is told the story of present accomplishments and future 
hopes! 

Hands that are beautiful in form and texture, hands 
that show the happy results of good care, hands that by the 
grace of their gestures speak a language of culture and re¬ 
finement, are silent tributes to the woman who possesses 
them. 

THE HANDS AND FINGERNAILS respond to treat¬ 
ment more quickly and satisfactorily than almost any other 
part of the body, and the results of a little care and attention 
are so well worth while that it is a confession of negligence 
and carelessness to be without smooth, white hands and well 
shaped nails. 

As soon as the hands betray lack of care a woman loses 
her daintiness, and daintiness is not only a woman’s heritage 
but her obligation. It is, of course, a little more difficult 
for women who do their own housework to keep their hands 
as lovely as those more fortunate women who are not 
obliged to keep their hands in hot or cold water for a great 
part of the day. But the fact that one has many household 
duties is neither a reason nor an excuse for hands that are 
anything less than beautiful. It requires a trifle more 
trouble—but nothing is so thoroughly worth the effort. 

Warm water and pure Castile soap constitute the Sensi¬ 
ble, dependable daily treatment for the hands. First of all 
they are cleansing. Secondly, this purest of soaps keeps the 
texture of the skin smooth and soft. In addition, keep a 
dish of Indian meal near your wash basin, and after the 
hands have been lathered with Castile soap, rub the meal 
freely all over the hands. This not only helps to soften the 


$ i x tp - f ix> e 


hands but prevents chap¬ 
ping. 

It is essential to dry the 
hands carefully at all times. 
Moist hands easily become 
chapped when exposed to 
the cold. This simple treat¬ 
ment is almost a guarantee 
for smooth, white hands: 

Wash the hands in hot 
oatmeal water. Rinse in 
clear lukewarm water with 
which a handful of almond 
meal has been mixed. After 
drying the hands thoroughly 
rub into them a mixture of 
glycerine, lemon juice and rose water. 

This will prevent chapping, but there are times when 
winter’s cold can penetrate even this strong bulkwork of 
protection and chap the hands. Linseed oil and almond oil 
should then be rubbed into the hands. Rinse them in water 
which has been softened by adding benzoin. After they are 
thoroughly dry, dust them with talcum powder. A worth 
while habit to acquire when drying the hands is to press 
each finger at the sides of the nails. This will give a delicate 
tapering to the fingers. 

To cultivate a delicate smoothness in hands inclined 
to be rough, use this effective lotion: Make a smooth paste 
of fine salt, add enough water to wet the salt thoroughly 
and rub well into the hands, this removes the roughness. 

Dry well and apply the following: 


Sixty- six 












Glycerine, 5 ounces, 

Eau de Rose, 5 ounces, 

Juice of 1 Lemon. 

Shake Well Before Using. 

EXQUISITE NAILS are not only the index to a beau¬ 
tiful hand, but they are the outward insignia of a dainty 
woman. The hands are under observation as frequently as 
the face, and it is inconsistent to care for the complexion 
without exerting a scrupulous regard for the nails. 

The perfect nail is almond shaped, showing the delicate 
“moon” at the base, a graceful white arch at the tip, and 
exhibiting a clear, lustrous, shell pink surface. It is not 
pointed like a claw, nor polished like a jewel. It is beauti¬ 
ful by its shape and cleanliness, not by its conspicuousness. 
Best of all, it requires but a little daily care to transform the 
most unattractive nail into a nail worthy of compliment. 

MANICURING the nails is a simple process if it is at¬ 
tended to once or twice a week. This is an easy and effec¬ 
tive way: 

File the nails, following the outline of the fingers, and 
tapering them slightly so as to give a pretty slenderness to 
the fingertips. Do not make them too short, for the nails 
are primarily meant to be a protection for the fingers. Do 
not make them too long, for they are not meant to be 
weapons of warfare. Then soak the fingertips in warm, 
soapy water. 

SOFTEN THE CUTICLE with cold cream. Then, 
with an orange stick that has its tip protected with absorbent 
cotton, push it back from the base of the nail, firmly, but 
gently, taking care not to break it. Do not cut it. If you 
start to cut your cuticle it will grow thick and unsightly and 
require constant cutting, giving a heavy, unattractive base 
to the nail. Little hangnails or loose skin, may be cut away 


Sixty-Seven 


with tiny, sharp, curved cuticle scissors. Then, using, a 
good nail polish, rub the surface of the nails with a chamois- 
covered buffer. Glistening, glass-like liquid polishes are 
not in good taste. If the nails are inclined to be brittle, 
apply white tube vaseline at night. 

Any woman who follows these simple directions can be 
assured of beautiful nails. Each day it is only necessary to 
keep them clean with an orange wood stick, the end of which 
is covered by absorbent cotton, to shape them when drying 
the hands, and to polish them slightly. The reward of this 
little attention is beautiful nails—a ten-fold reward. 

IN SELECTING GLOVES be sure to have them large 
enough, A glove that is too small is not pretty for it deforms 
the shape of the hand in appearance. But more than that, it 
actually distorts the hand, bending it and making it red and 
swollen. A well fitting glove is the promise of a well 
formed hand within. Keep the promise by being able to 
exhibit beautiful hands when your gloves are removed. 



Si x i]f - e i g h i 


Ctr 


‘1313 


HEN long sleeves are the vogue the arms may be 
unnoticed. But as soon as short sleeves return to 
fashion, the role of the arm is an important one in 
the play of a woman’s appearance. Whether the 
daytime fashions demand short or long sleeves, the 
eternal mode of evening dress is sleeveless. Surely then it is 
necessary to devote a little care to the arms for those occa¬ 
sions when they are so very conspicuous, if not for the inti¬ 
mate pride of possessing lovely arms even when they are 
concealed all day in sleeves that reach to the wrists. 


Wash the arms as you wash your face, with a flesh 
brush, using a pure soap and lathering them freely. A lit¬ 
tle oatmeal or almond meal thrown into the water softens 
and cleanses the skin. Rub vigorously with the brush, so 
as to remove all soil and dead skin, leaving the arms satiny 
and white. Of course the blood that is brought to the sur¬ 
face by rubbing with the brush and drying with a coarse 
towel will stimulate the circulation and make the arms ap¬ 
pear red for a short while. But this flush will subside. Any 
irritation of the skin may be 
counteracted with this sooth¬ 
ing cream: 

Sweet Almond Oil, 1 gram, 

White Vaseline, 6 grams, 

Benzoin, 5 drops, 

Spermaceti, 6 grams. 



Sixty-nine 









If the lower arm is tanned or freckled apply raw corn 
meal and milk which has been kept at the consistency of a 
mush and allowed to sour. 

THE ARM PITS should be as smooth and white as 
the shoulders when one wears a sheer frock or blouse, or 
when the entire arm is exposed in evening attire. 

There are some good depilatories for successfully 
removing the hair that grows in the arm pits, but there 
are many harmful ones, and rather than take the chance of 
using one that may cause infection, use this certain and safe 
prescription by a recognized physician: 

Barium Sulphide (Gray fresh), 3 drams 
Zinc Oxide Powder, 4 drams, 

Amyli Powder, 4 drams, 

Oil Pinus Sylvestris, 15 drops. 

Mix a little of the powder with water to form a paste. 
Do not wash the arm pits with warm or hot water and 
soap before using. Apply to the arm pits with absorbent 
cotton for about four minutes. Then wash away with warm 
water and Castile soap- Apply cold cream after to soften 
and protect the skin. 

Beauty of contour is only half the attractiveness of a 
woman's arms. Grace of gesture is the other essential to a 
beautiful arm. This must be cultivated. Notice the way 
in which you hold your arms when you stand, the way in 
which you swing them when you walk, how you use them 
when you talk. Do not employ the powerful, compelling 
gestures that become a man. Do not move the hands awk¬ 
wardly. Always let them relax into easy, natural positions. 
Gesture, like speech, is a matter of individual cultivation. 
Gesture may be improved just as one’s speaking voice and 
manner of speech can be improved. It is worth study and 
conscientious development. 


Seventy 



HE first step toward well shaped feet are well shaped 
shoes from one's first steps. Well shaped does not 
always mean shaped according to the latest whim 
of fashion, for shoes that conform only to fashion 
too seldom conform to the requirements of the 
feet. Since the appearance of the foot, its health, its com¬ 
fort, and the important matter of the carriage of the body, 
depend entirely upon the shoes one wears, it is logical to 
suppose that attention directed toward the selection of the 
proper shoes is not misdirected. 


In buying shoes be sure to try walking in them. Do not 
purchase a shoe with no other assurance of its comfort than 
the fact that it did not hurt when it was tried on your foot. 
The foot at repose is a different shape than when the entire 
weight of the body rests upon it. Shoes should fit the feet 
in action! 

Spend as much as you can afford upon your shoes. This 
is a case where economy is extravagance, for a shoe that is 
improperly lasted or imperfectly made is a direct cause of 
foot ailments. Choose the last with regard for the shape of 
your feet. All women cannot wear the same style and 


5eVen/J-onc 











shape of shoe any more than all women can look well in the 
same hat. If your foot is long and slender, do not be in¬ 
duced by a vagary of fashion to wear a short vamp shoe that 
presses back your toes and throws the weight of your body 
out of balance.. If your toes are short and your foot wide, 
do not be persuaded to pinch your feet with tapering shoes. 
There are enough styles of shoes manufactured to take care 
of the particular shape of your particular foot. Take pains 
to find that shape even before you insist upon the style and 
color to suit your taste. Remember, any offense to your 
feet almost always has a painful effect upon other parts of 
your body. 

It is not necessary to wear ungainly orthopedic shoes 
unless you are really afflicted with foot ailments. Neverthe¬ 
less this would be more humanitarian by far than to wear 
shoes that look well but do harm. In recent years there has 
been a return to common sense in the fashion of the low- 
heeled shoe for walking. This fashion has brought comfort 
and a more graceful carriage to so many thousands of wom¬ 
en that it would be unfortunate to relinquish it. It is to be 
hoped that this vogue will continue. 

Popular demand is the force that creates a vogue. If 
women insist upon the low-heeled walking shoe, its fashion 
cannot wane. With afternoon or evening gowns, high 
heels are often a fashion requisite. Wearing them occasion¬ 
ally will not hurt you. But be fastidious about having the 
heels straight. A run down heel is not only injurious to 
health but it is indicative of gross carelessness. 

IF THE ANKLES are shapely and strong, it is wise to 
wear low shoes, because the air that is permitted to reach the 
feet prevents perspiration. If there is any weakness of the 
ankles, wear high laced shoes—not buttoned shoes—for 
laces may be adjusted each day to support the ankles in the 


Sevcnt\)-tto> 


required manner, whereas buttons always remain in the same 
place. Wear comfortable stockings of correct size at all 
times. A stocking that is too large forms little folds inside 
the shoes which rub against the feet, causing irritation 
and often blisters. A stocking that is too short draws up 
the toes and creates friction between the delicate joints of 
the toes and the lining of the shoe, often causing painful 
corns. 

THE ARCH is the most important part of the foot. The 
well-arched and well-shod foot does not easily become tired. 
The greatest enemy of the well-formed arch is the high heel. 
It throws so much of the weight toward the front of the foot 
and interferes so greatly with a correct distribution of the 
weight that the arch first tires, then weakens, then breaks 
down altogether—a misfortune as painful as it is unneces¬ 
sary. To be sure that your shoes permit proper distribution 
of your weight, imagine a line drawn through your large toe. 
It should strike the middle of your heel. If it does not your 
shoes are weakening your arches. To strengthen the arches 
practice the following simple exercise before putting on 
your shoes in the morning and at night when your feet are 
bare: ♦ 

Rise on the toes, pointing your toes in and your heels 
out and walk up and down several times in your room. 
Then rise on your heels, keeping your toes pointed in, and 
walk backward. Now sit down, extend the legs, stretch the 
ankles and arches, and curve the toes under the feet. Ro¬ 
tate them individually with the fingers in order to stimulate 
independent muscular action. Rotate the entire foot from 
the ankle. Whenever you are seated, try to think of 
stretching your toes downward. This contracts the arch 
and strengthens it. If the feet are tired after walking or 
dancing, soak them in water as warm as possible to which a 
handful of plain washing soda or alum has been added. 


Seventy-three 


Rochelle salts also bring relief. Dry the feet thoroughly 
and dust them with stearate of zinc to prevent perspiration. 

A com is Nature's protection against pressure. It pro¬ 
vides thicknesses of non-sensitive skin to lessen the discom¬ 
fort inflicted by the cramped shoe. Sooner or later this 
skin itself presses down into the delicate nerve fibres and 
causes extreme pain. Do not cut a corn. If you cannot re¬ 
move it with a good com plaster, visit a chiropodist, and 
have it treated surgically. The best advice with regard to 
bunions is to avoid getting them as they are the hardest 
foot ailment to cure. They are the aftermath of short shoes 
—shoes that press back the big toe until its joint becomes 
enlarged. 

Keep the toenails cut straight and even with the outline 
of the toes in order to avoid ingrowing nails and to keep 
them from tearing the stockings unnecessarily. 

Health cannot exist with awkward carriage. When the 
spine is not upright, when the shoulders are permitted to 
droop, when the head is not held erect, the entire health of 
the body is certain to be undermined. These are the direct 
results of poorly fitting shoes. Is it not worth while to take 
the trouble to choose your shoes not only because they are 
smart to look at, but comfortable to wear—correctly lasted 
for your particular feet? 



Sevenly-four 


7£e < n^ornctru C lMhjcr C ^WoxJxLs) 


G41N WEIGHT 



INCE our most learned scientists have assured us 
that mind dominates matter, it is easy to infer that 
in order to build up a body weakened by worry, 
overwork or illness, it is necessary to develop first 



Uot—J a determined mental resolve for the definite, steady 
acquisition of health, strength and weight. A mind that has 
been strained by work or worry or weakened by illness needs 
mental and physical relaxation. Not the tension of re¬ 
straint, but the freedom of indulgence—not the weakness of 
indifference, but the strength of assurance—must be the 
mental attitude of the woman who would improve her 
health and increase her beauty by gaining weight. For 
curves, not angles are the lines of beauty! 


“Straight is the line of duty; 
Curved is the line of beauty 


FIRST, COME OUT OF DOORS. Health was never 
breathed in with stagnant air, steam heated air, or draughty 
air. It can be imbibed in large doses in the great outdoors, 
where it is ever fresh and freely circulating. Fresh air 
arouses the appetite, brings the glow of health to pale and 
sallow cheeks and strengthens the whole body. 


Seventy-five 



NEXT, EXERCISE. Exercising to gain weight is en¬ 
tirely different from exercising to lose it. Exercise to coun¬ 
teract the languid feeling of the body, to overcome the lassi¬ 
tude, to stimulate vigor, to rouse the circulation, to cheer the 
mental attitude. This kind of exercise consists of deep 
breathing, determined walking, decisive movements of the 
body at all times. It does not mean strenuous, tiring, muscle- 
developing athletics. These may be indulged in after the 
body has gained strength and weight. Until then, concen¬ 
trate only upon overcoming sluggishness by deliberate 
quickening of action and gesture, by habitual deep breathing, 
by walking for pleasure, change, interest and appetite. 

ADEQUATE REST is second only in importance to 
fresh air—rest regulated by common sense. Do not make a 
practice of lying in bed late in the morning. Retire early, 
rise early, then, if need be, rest every afternoon for half an 
hour or an hour. Whenever you lie down, be sure that the 
windows of your room are open widely enough to admit 
plenty of fresh air, and that you are warmly covered. Com¬ 
fortable relaxation is the only beneficial rest. Release the 
tension from every muscle, close your eyes softly, breathe 
deeply and easily, and soon sweet refreshing sleep will come 
to you. How long you sleep during the day is not im¬ 
portant—how restfully is what counts toward rebuilding a 
debilitated body. 

DRINK WATER whenever you think of it. Urge your¬ 
self to think of it. And whenever you do think of it, do not let 
anything prevent you from following the thought with the 
act. Water is an essential to life. It is a prime essential in 
the regaining of strength or weight. Do not drink too much 
during meals—it interferes with digestion. But between 
meals it is invaluable. 


5e»en/J)-j/x 


BATHE DAILY. Water is as indispensable outside as 
inside. Take care that the water is not too hot as this 
induces perspiration and weight is lost rather than gained 
when the body perspires freely. Use water that is comfort¬ 
ably warm and cleansing. Follow the warm bath by a cold 
shower if you can stand it, for cold water rouses the circula¬ 
tion better than a tonic. If the body is at all weak, consult 
your physician before experimenting with the cold bath or 
shower. There is a possibility that the nervous system may 
not react normally and then cold water is harmful. Bathe 
in a warm room to avoid becoming chilled after bathing. 
Do not walk on the cold, tiled floor of a bathroom with the 
feet bare. Dry the body thoroughly after the bath. 

DRESS SENSIBLY and comfortably. Keep the body 
warm but not too warm. Dress yourself for protection 
against cold in winter. Avoid the blazing heat of summer¬ 
time. Beware of draughts when the seasons are changing. 

All this means only normal, common sense living. It 
means refrain from physical overwork, mental tension and 
worry. It means frequent bathing, adequate rest and relax¬ 
ation, sufficient drinking of water, deep breathing, sensible 
dressing. Hitch your wagon to the health star! 

FLESH-PRODUCING DIET must supplement a 
common sense regimen of healthful living. Nature has 
provided strength and weight-creating foods. Science has 
tabulated them. It remains for you to eat them—con¬ 
scientiously. 

Eggs, meats, milk, fruits and nuts are Nature’s most 
nourishing foods. These contain fat and strength producing 
elements. These and all kindred varieties of food should con¬ 
stitute the menu of the woman who is seeking to gain 
weight. 

Iron is a mineral, found in certain fruits and vegetables, 


Seveniy-seven 


that is vital in the making of pure, red blood. Dates, nuts, 
figs, prunes, apples, cabbage, peas, carrots, spinach, rice, 
onions, lettuce, and ripe olives are foods rich in iron and 
therefore both strength-producing and nourishing. Figs 
and spinach have the additional quality of being an excellent 
aid in keeping the bowels in good condition. They contain 
laxative elements. Crisp lettuce is a particularly good blood- 
making food—but be sure it is crisp. Wilted lettuce belongs 
to the list of indigestibles. Peanut butter is a highly nutri¬ 
tious food and is an excellent substitute in food value for 
meat. Used instead of butter on whole wheat bread it is a 
stimulating and satisfying food. 

BEYOND ALL ELSE, MILK is the tissue building 
food. Remember that during the first months of life babies 
have a diet of milk exclusively. For a weakened condition it 
is the ideal between-meals food drink. Milk-and-egg shake 
contains the highest type of nourishment. If you find its 
taste unpleasant, season it with a little sugar, salt, or a few 
drops of cocoa or flavoring extract. Be sure that this drink 
is well shaken and that the egg is thoroughly mixed with 
the milk. Cocoa made with pure milk is also delicious and 
very nourishing. 

The following suggestions for breakfast, dinner and 
supper will be found to include a sufficiently varied menu to 
supply foods both palatable and nourishing for the woman 
who is trying to increase her weight and gain strength: 



Seventy-eight 


fiRMKFAST 

O RANGES, bananas with cream, apple sauce, stewed prunes with 
cream, stewed apricots, stewed peaches, stewed figs, peaches 
with cream, pears or baked apple with cream. 

Any dry cereal with cream, oatmeal, farina, boiled rice, cream of 
wheat, hominy or other cooked cereal with butter or cream. 

Scrambled egg yolks with spinach, beet and fish hash, poached eggs 
on whole wheat toast, shirred eggs, soft-boiled eggs. 

Whole wheat muffins, apple corn muffins, toasted graham or raisin 
bread, graham popovers, nut bread and lettuce leaves. 

Half milk and cream, cocoa or chocolate. 


JCyNGHSON 

B OUILLON with egg yolks, cream of spinach soup, lamb broth, 
chicken broth, beef broth with whole wheat bread, beef soup 
with sweet cream. 

Nut bread and lettuce sandwich, whole wheat bread and water 
cress sandwich, hard-boiled egg and lettuce salad, vegetable salad with 
whole wheat muffins. 

Lamb chops, all varieties of fish foods. 

Baked apples, apple sauce with sponge cake, chopped fig souffle 
with lady fingers, caramel custard, baked or boiled custard, bread pud¬ 
ding with dates, apples or figs, tapioca or rice pudding. 


Seventh-nine 







V EGETABLE, split pea, beef or celery soup, lamb or beef broth 
with dropped egg or noodles, chicken soup with rice or barley, 
creamed oyster soup, clam broth. 


Roast, boiled or broiled meats (never fried) such as rare 


roast beef, rare Hamburger steak with onions, roast lamb, lamb or 
mutton chops. 

Fish, such as broiled salmon, mackerel, halibut, or bass. Potatoes 
boiled, baked, boiled in jackets, creamed, scalloped or au gratin, in any 
form except fried. 

Fruit salad, nut and apple salad, spinach and egg salad, beet salad, 
watercress and romaine salad, celery. 

All vegetables. 

Ice cream, jelly, home-preserved fruits, light cakes, pineapple, cus¬ 
tard, raisin, apple or prune pie, nuts, raisins, Malaga grapes, milk 
chocolate, cream cheese with jelly or chopped nuts. 

Pot cheese or American cheese. 

(For dressing on salads lemon juice is more beneficial to the 
stomach than vinegar, and may be used in Russian, or French dress¬ 
ing or mayonnaise.) 



Eighty 



^JfiG C Tl)xywan 

]£8l WEIGHT 

HE fat man’s burden is a real one, especially if it 
happens to be a woman,” said Bill Nye, and he 
voiced the sentiments of thousands of women who 
are sighing to get thin. But sighing without trying 
will achieve nothing but first aid to humorists who 
are looking for material to make people laugh. 

Shakespeare was a little more delicate when he said, 
“Make less thy body, hence more thy grace.” But its truth is 
as obvious as its words are musical, for obesity and grace can¬ 
not be possessed by the same woman. 

But superfluous weight makes a visible confession more 
cruel than lack of grace. It means that a woman’s body 
rules her will. 

Overweight is an enemy to beauty, elegance and activ¬ 
ity. Corpulence and complete health are never allies. 
Every stout woman is conscious of these things, yet there 
are many stout women. What an admission of lack of will 
power! 

TO REDUCE MEANS TO RESTRAIN. It means 
insistent, persistent restraint. It means eat less, sit less, ex¬ 
ercise more, work more. It means all these things with per- 
severence. But it means as a reward the restoration of 
health, symmetry, grace and self pride! Reducing the flesh 
is a personal matter between oneself and Nature. There is 




Eighty* one 



no short cut to slenderness. Nature administers the entire 
treatment and demands for payment the co-operation of her 
patient. She resents interference. She always vindicates 
opposition. Grace is not a liquid put up in bottles to be 
taken internally. Slenderness is not rolled into pills to be 
dissolved in a teaspoonful of water and swallowed before 
meals. Pounds do not roll off the body by being pressed into 
the body with cumbersome external applications. It is not 
what you take nor what you do that reduces the flesh—it is 
what you do not take and what you do not do! 

FATTY TISSUE is created in the body by fats and 
starches in foods, lack of exercise, lack of work, lack of will. 
The point where one begins to lose weight is where one be¬ 
gins to gain will! Indulge in work, indulge in exercise, but 
stop indulging in food. If you have permitted yourself the 
luxury of chocolates and bon bons, the nibbling of bread or 
the sipping of water throughout a meal, desserts rich with 
cream or sweet with sugar, fat meat and thick soups as an 
essential part of every dinner, do not wonder why you are 
overweight. These are the reasons. They must be shunned 
as you would shun poison. Candies and pastries must be 
absolutely eliminated from the diet list. Do not substitute 
these between meal indulgences. They have no substitutes, 
for you must stop eating between meals. When to eat is as 
important as what to eat. This means at meals only. 

Cut white bread from your menu, unless it has been 
toasted after it is dry. Otherwise restrict your bread diet 
to breads made of the coarser flours—graham, whole wheat 
or gluten. Water is certainly essential to life, but it is just 
as essential to avoid it during meals if one is trying to lose 
weight. Wine and liquors of any nature are definitely can¬ 
celled from the menu of the woman in quest of slenderness. 
Hot or cold cocoa or chocolate spreads fatty tissue over the 
body as you would spread butter upon bread. Shun them. 


E i g h t $ - i o 


But the body needs a certain amount of liquid. Try to 
cultivate a taste for weak tea or coffee without sugar or 
cream. Don’t pet yourself by saying: “Oh, I just can’t drink 
tea or coffee without sugar and cream.” The fact that the 
taste varies from the beverage to which you have become 
accustomed through daily habit for many years does not 
mean that it is unpleasant. These are both pleasant and 
thirst-quenching drinks, and it will be only a day or two 
until you train your taste to enjoy them. Do not eliminate 
sugar altogether, but minimize your use of it as much as 
possible. But there must be total abstinence from all other 
sweets in order to assure loss of weight. Avoid fatty meats, 
fatty fish, rich gravies and dressings, starchy vegetables 
such as potatoes, rice, barley or corn, breakfast cereals with 
sugar and cream, and fat producing fruits such as bananas, 
grapes or peaches. 

This does not make a very long or tedious list of things 
to be avoided. It does not mean that you will have to starve. 
Nature has been prodigal in her bounty and has provided 
sufficient delicacies that are not fat-producing, that are de¬ 
licious to the taste, and varied enough to supply a normal 
number of courses for three dissimilar meals every day. 

CHOOSE THE LEAN CUTS OF MEAT wherever 
possible, but eliminate pork and veal from the menu as the 
tissue of these two meats is fat-producing. Enjoy all the 
green vegetables such as spinach, parsnips, carrots, beets, 
peas, asparagus, and onions, and you may indulge safely in 
every variety of green salad, provided you use a dressing of 
vinegar or lemon—not olive oil or mayonnaise. Apples, 
oranges, plums, cherries and all the berries are safe fruits. 

Above all avoid butter, cream, bacon, cocoa, nuts, cheese 
and rich sauces. But the strictest regimen of diet will be of 
little avail if you permit yourself the occasional indulgence 


Eigh ip - ihr e e 


in ice cream, pastry or candy. “Just one tiny piece” will set 
you forward a good many ounces. If you are in earnest 
about diminishing your weight, a moment of pleasure de¬ 
rived from a sweet tidbit is not worth while. 

BATHING is the next important thing. Consider the 
bath as an imperative act on each day’s program. Use hot 
water to induce perspiration, for that is the method by which 
the skin discharges fat. The action of skin alone cannot ac¬ 
complish reduction of the flesh. Bathing without exercise 
to keep the skin firm will produce softened flesh, flabbiness, 
and wrinkles. Follow the hot bath with a cold shower to 
close the pores and keep the skin firm during the lessening 
of weight. 

External cleanliness must be supplemented with inter¬ 
nal cleanliness. Keep the digestion in order and never per¬ 
mit the system to become constipated. 

If diet and bathing are not accompanied by exercise, 
a disfiguring softening of the flesh will occur at the waist¬ 
line, at the upper arms and under the chin. And what is 
more conspicuous an advertisement of matronliness? 

BENDING EXERCISES are advisable to overcome 
loose rolls of flesh at the waistline. Stand before your open 
window. Inhale deep draughts of fresh air. Bend the trunk 
forward ten times, returning each time to an erect position. 
Then ten times to the right and ten times to the left. You 
may not be able to do it ten times at first—you may be able 
to do it more than ten times afterward. But bending at the 
waistline is an invaluable exercise for making the flesh firm. 
Try touching the floor with your fingertips when you bend. 
You will be surprised how much easier it is each time you 
try. Then raise the arms above the head, forward and side¬ 
ways, lowering them each time at the sides. Do not throw 
the head forward when practicing this exercise, but keep the 


Eighty-four 


chin drawn in well and the head and chest high. 

THE DOUBLE CHIN adds age and subtracts beauty 
from the face of the woman who is guilty of avoirdupois. 
Yet a double chin can be overcome. As a part of your exer¬ 
cise every morning, lift the head fifty times, stretching the 
muscles of the neck. Massage the chin with firm, light 
strokes and after the massage apply ice wrapped in a thin 
muslin on which a few drops of benzoin have been poured. 
Always remember to hold the head high. Sleep with a low 
pillow. 

THIS IS THE NATURAL WAY to lose flesh. Nature 
never breaks speed laws. She is slow but certain. Do not 
become discouraged in a few days and relax your persis¬ 
tence. If you are insistent about becoming slender, you must 
be persistent in the method of achieving slenderness. Do 
not expect to find the scale register less every day. If you 
attempt to lose weight too suddenly you will lose strength 
and health also. Do not be induced to hurry by glowing 
testimonials of successful flesh-reducing medicines. Medi¬ 
cines are within the province of a doctor. Do not attempt 
to prescribe for yourself or let your friends prescribe for 
you. Abstinence from flesh-producing foods, cleanliness, 
fresh air and exercise constitute Nature’s flesh reducing 
regimen. If you believe that Nature needs outside assist¬ 
ance, consult a doctor. If you have faith in the inevitable 
laws of Nature, follow the rules and grow thin. 



E i g h l y - F i v e 



E i g h i'o - S i x 















Copy by: Estelle Hamburger 




LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 



0 034 076 594 1 




